The Ladies and Roses of "Ninfa"

A visit to Ninfa was high on my garden visit wish list. Anticipation was high as Ninfa, nestling dreamily at the foot of the Lepini mountains in Lazio (Italy), embraced by the hauntingly beautiful ruins of a medieval village, has been called the most romantic garden in the world.

I arrived at Ninfa during a perfectly idyllic afternoon - golden sunshine caressing the ancient stones, a gentle breeze whispering through the trees, hang gliders soaring against the majestic mountain backdrop, and a lone bird of prey circling elegantly in the blue sky above.

The setting was spectacular, and as I meandered through the garden behind my knowledgeable guide, I was thankful for the rare privilege of experiencing this exquisite, centuries old sanctuary full of stunning roses and profound history.

Our visit was in early May, that magical window when the roses unveil themselves in their full splendour and their petals are unfurled in perfect bloom. As a complete rose novice, I found myself captivated by this living gallery - each variety revealing its unique character through delicate hue, architectural form or intoxicating fragrance. I wandered the paths with purpose, mentally cataloguing inspirations that might transform the modest borders of my own garden at home.

The roses were cascading dramatically from ancient, ruined towers and gnarled trees, scrambling along crumbling archways and dangling precariously over crystal clear waters in which their silhouettes were perfectly reflected.  

The structure, form and planting of the garden functioned in perfect harmony, and according to our guide, botanical principles and historical considerations govern every aspect of the gardens’ arrangement.

Ninfa is named after a temple dedicated to sacred nymphs in the first century, the foundations of which have been discovered beneath the waters of Ninfa's man-made lake, creating a mystical connection between the past and present in this dreamy landscape.

After experiencing a tumultuous past, Ninfa was ultimately deserted following its pillage and devastation in 1382. Never completely restored, the site was finally abandoned by its last residents because of expanding wetlands and disease. For centuries, Ninfa remained dormant and forgotten.

The Caetani family, who owned the land, eventually began restoring the area in the late 19th century, focusing on creating the Giardino di Ninfa, which stands as an amazing testament to their vision and dedication.

In 1921 Ninfa passed into the hands of Prince Gelasio Caetani, who applied his engineering expertise to revitalize the estate. He meticulously restored and cleared the ancient walls, stabilized the riverbanks, and enhanced the lake and water systems throughout the grounds.

Though horticulture was not his principal interest, Prince Caetani highly valued seclusion, which led him to establish many of the magnificent trees that now define the landscape.

However it was the "Ladies of Ninfa" who planted the roses - Ada, Marguerite and Leila - grandmother, mother and daughter.

Roses were first introduced to Ninfa by Prince Gelasio's English mother, Ada Constance Bootle-Wilbraham, who recognized that the rich soils would nurture these elegant blooms. She cultivated primarily Teas and Noisettes, but also strategically positioned roses against the ancient walls where they could intertwine with the ivy, their vibrant petals creating a stunning contrast against the lush evergreen backdrop.

Ada planted Rosa moschata, ‘Alister Stella Grey’, ‘Madame Alfred Carriere’, ‘Marechal Niel’ and ‘General Schiablikine’.  She carefully transplanted cuttings from the rose bushes flourishing in her other garden at Fogliana, with historical records suggesting these elegant varieties were initially imported from England.

After Gelasio’s death, his sister-in-law, Marguerite, Duchess of Sermoneta continued planting roses at Ninfa.  Marguerite planted ‘Mermaid’, ‘Reve d’Or’, ’Allen Chandler’, Rosa x anemonoides, ‘Francois Juranvile’, ‘Madame Laurette Messimy’, ‘Cramoisi Superieur’, ‘Zephirine Droubhin’, Rosa odorata, Rosa cooperi, ‘Fortune’s Double Yellow’, Rosa roxburghii ‘Plena’ and Rosa chinensis ‘Mutabilis’.

In around 1950 Marguerite’s daughter, Princess Leila an artist and plant lover continued the traditions of planting roses in the garden. Leila chose ‘Buff Beauty’, ‘Cornelia’, ‘Vanity’, ‘Moonlight’, ‘La Follette’, ‘Belle of Portugal’, ‘Ramona’, Rosa laevigata, Rosa bracteata, ‘Canary Bird’, ‘Hamburger’, ‘Phoenix’, ‘Kassel’ and ‘Nymphenburg’

There are over 200 varieties of Rose at Ninfa but the one which captivated me was Rosa ‘Agripinna’ a stunning cherry red rose with a mild raspberry fragrance, which was gracefully climbing a tree beside the lake, its vibrant colour creating a striking contrast against the tranquil water.

Via some research, I discovered that this particular rose was introduced in France by Jean-Baptiste Paillet in 1834 under the name 'Cramoisi Superieur'. It was among the roses Marguerite had brought to the garden. I felt a thrill at establishing this connection to the past, though I'll defer to the experts for confirmation of my identification.

My visit to Ninfa followed a predetermined route, with our attentive guide ensuring we remained on the designated pathways, limiting opportunities for independent exploration. Nevertheless, I felt a sense of exclusivity as we appeared to be the sole visitors that afternoon, affording us precious moments to linger, immerse ourselves in the enchanting atmosphere, and capture stunning photographs. Ninfa has cast its spell on me, and already I find myself wanting to return someday.

For those interested in exploring Ninfa in greater depth – its rich history, fascinating people, notable connections, diverse plant life and of course, the roses – I recommend reading the following books.

“The Garden of Ninfa” – by Marella Caracciolo and Giuppi Piertromarchi

“Ninfa – The Most Romantic Garden in the World” – by Charles Quest-Ritson

Guineveres Garden | Garden Writer